Ok, I fully admit that I might appear to have a pretty biased opinion on this topic, seeing as how I run my own independent pattern company. But the truth is, I’m neither for or against either type of pattern. I have, however, spent the past few years getting myself very familiar with the world of sewing pattern publishing and have found some very interesting pros and cons to both systems.
First off, what’s the difference? If you’ve ever browsed the sewing pattern selections at a branch of a large sewing store chain (like JoAnns or Walmart) you’ll be familiar with the pattern companies McCalls, Butterick, Vogue and Simplicity (aka the Big Four). These patterns are almost always printed on thin, brown tissue paper and sold in white envelopes.
If you’ve ever taken a stroll through your local quilt shop and seen a wall full of patterns by companies you’ve never heard of, you’re probably familiar with independent pattern companies. When these patterns are produced, they are typically printed on white paper, include a cover with a photo of the project and are packaged into a clear plastic pattern bag.
So which is better? Neither as far as I’m concerned. But understanding the business side of the two options can make all the difference in helping you find the pattern you’re looking for.
The Big Four
Let’s take a look at the big companies like Simplicity, Vogue, McCalls and Butterick. These companies are huge, and they’ve been in the business for a long time. They take designs from hundreds of pattern designers and publish them under one name. (they’ll often find an independent pattern designer and pick up one or two of her patterns to add to their own line). They are big enough companies to have a staff, which includes a whole quality control department ensuring that the costumer will be satisfied with the finished product.
These companies sell their patterns to larger chain stores (like JoAnn’s) making their patterns widely available, but also creating the need to follow strict production guidelines. (getting patterns into JoAnn’s involves such a complicated procedure that most small companies I know don’t even consider it a realistic option) The symbols and methods used in these patterns also follow certain standards, so once you learn them you’ll be able to follow thousands of patterns.
Because their patterns are available to such a wide audience, they tend to carry patterns that will appeal to the masses in both style and technique level, making it hard to find a specific look or style.
Independent Pattern Companies
Anyone who designs her own pattern and sells it under her own name is considered self published. (my company, Sweetbriar Sisters, is a self published pattern company) The patterns can be printed out or sold as a PDF (a computer file downloaded by the customer). The term ‘Independent Pattern Company’ can refer to both a well established business or an Etsy shop selling 2 patterns that were made last month. Because there are not strict production guidelines for self publishing, the symbols and rules followed in these patterns are often slightly different for each company. I am still surprised almost every time I take my printed patterns into a shop to see if they’d be interested to sell them. I’d say only 10% of stores even look at the pattern pieces and instructions. Most look at the cover, and decide on that. As a seamstress, I find that horribly shocking. No matter how cute a pattern cover is, if I can’t follow the directions, it does me no good. (do keep in mind that most pattern companies want to keep customers happy, so they go to a lot of effort to make sure their instructions make sense! I’m not saying all indie-patterns have bad instructions, just that it is a possibility)
However, for all the drawbacks from the lack of supervision, less guidelines also allow for more creativity. I often find that my favorite patterns out there are offered by independent pattern companies. Because independent pattern designers don’t have to answer to a CEO, they can design whatever they want. I’ve often heard designers mention that they’ll continue designing what they love, despite their sales figures. This dedication towards passion rather than sales allows independent designers to create patterns that are unique and beautifully thought out. Rather than focusing one pattern that will appeal to 100 people, independent designers can design 100 patterns that appeal to a small niche. When you find an self published pattern designer you like, you tend to like almost everything she makes.
I personally love working with both types of patterns. When I am learning a technique I try to stick with the standardizes patterns from the Big Four. I know these patterns will include good instructions that will teach me correct practices. For example, I sew a lot of toys and home decor, but I don’t sew a lot of clothing. If I wanted to sew a shirt, I’d be more likely to look for a standardized pattern so I’d be sure all the instructions are included. Once I’d sewn through one standardized pattern, I’d feel more comfortable branching out to independent companies.
However, there are definitely times when I prefer independent patterns. I have this beautiful silk that I found years ago and have saved to make into a dress. I have a certain look in mind and have searched through all of the Big Four patterns and but didn’t find anything like what I’d imagined (the Big Four cater to pleasing the general public, not specific ideas). As I’ve searched through independent companies I was able to find designers that worked in the specific style I love and through following their work I’ve found several patterns that would work with my specific idea.
Where we’re headed
It seems like with every year that goes by, there are more independent pattern designers out there. The internet surely works as the great equalizer, allowing anyone in the world to become a designer. Companies like Go To Patterns are popping up and providing curated collections of independently designed patterns (they review every indie-pattern before giving it their approval to be sold on their site). I think the gap between the two types of patterns will grow smaller as the bigger companies pick up more indie-pattern makers, and as indie-pattern designers find ways to standardized rules. I think a lot of change is headed our way, and it will be exciting to see what comes from it!